Autumn/Winter Activewear: Brushed Knits, Thermal Structures and Layering Fabrics

Cold-weather training apparel relies on a layered system rather than a single miracle fabric. Each layer has a defined job, and the fabric chosen for each layer should be specified against that job.

The three-layer model

• Base layer – next to skin, responsible for moisture transport. Typically 150–200 GSM fine-gauge polyester or polypropylene knit, sometimes with a wool blend.
• Mid layer – insulation and warmth. Brushed fleece, grid fleece or double-face knit, 220–320 GSM.
• Outer layer – wind and light rain protection. Softshell, laminated knit or bonded membrane, 200–350 GSM.

Brushed and grid fleece constructions

Brushing raises fibres from the knit surface, trapping air and creating warmth without weight. Grid fleece goes further: a three-dimensional structure of raised squares and open channels that increases breathability at the same thermal value. Both constructions should be tested for pilling and for fibre shedding, which can be significant on low-quality brushed knits.

Double-face and bonded fabrics

Double-face knits combine a smooth outer face with a brushed or structured inner face on one machine, avoiding lamination entirely. Bonded fabrics using a breathable membrane or a foam interlining offer higher wind resistance but must be tested for delamination after laundering and for flexibility at the elbow and knee.

Specification notes

• Thermal resistance, expressed in clo, gives an objective warmth measure.
• Air permeability below 5 l/m²/s indicates a wind-resistant outer layer.
• Elastane content of 8–15% keeps mid layers in shape without restricting movement.
• Anti-pilling grade of 4 or better prevents the fuzzy surface that ruins winter pieces.
• Drying speed matters more than thickness; a soggy fleece loses all thermal value.

Testing checklist

• Thermal insulation and air permeability.
• Pilling and abrasion resistance on the brushed face.
• Dimensional stability after three washes at 40 °C.
• Spray or hydrostatic test for outer layers.
• Delamination test for laminated constructions.

Winter ranges reward buyers who think in system terms: a well-matched base, mid and outer layer outperforms three premium fabrics chosen independently.