Northlane Active Denmark: Odor-Free Cycling Jerseys Built on Copper Ion Filament

Northlane Active is a Denmark-based activewear label whose cycling jerseys programme sells directly to consumers and through selected retail partners. The team asked us to rebuild the fabric from scratch because the sustainability team rejected a biocidal finish that was on the first sample. The target was odour control that complied with the brand's restricted substance list.

Northlane Active: odour-control swatch set for the cycling jerseys programme

The challenge

The smell built up at the back panel under the pockets, where sweat sits longest during a session. The previous fabric was a standard synthetic knit with no odour strategy, so bacteria broke the sweat down on the fabric and the smell became permanent after a few weeks. An internal compliance review before bulk booking made the problem urgent: the brand needed a fix before the next bulk booking, not a new supplier search.

The fabric solution

We built the programme around Copper Ion Filament on a polyamide knit base. The mechanism matters: copper damages bacterial cell walls and also improves thermal transfer away from the skin. Keeping the base at polyester knit with mesh side panels and 130 GSM meant the hand, the stretch and the cover stayed exactly where the design team wanted them, because odour control changed the chemistry and the construction rather than the silhouette.

Wear trial and fit approval of the polyamide knit fabric

Development and implementation

• Week 1: brief agreed, sweat zone mapped, target set as bacterial reduction above 98% with improved thermal diffusion by AATCC 100.
• Week 2–3: laboratory knits produced and tested; add-on level adjusted until the target was met with margin.
• Week 4–5: wear trial on finished cycling jerseys, assessed after eight hours of wear.
• Pre-production: wash durability confirmed at 40 home washes, care wording written as avoid bleach and dry away from direct heat.
• Bulk: fixed recipe, consolidated dye lots, AATCC 100 repeated on every lot.

Specification delivered

Results

The wear panel scored the new fabric two points cleaner on a five-point scale, and the brand rewrote its product page claim to match the test method. The odour value was re-measured on bulk fabric rather than on the approval sample, so the result reflects what customers actually received. The programme is now on its third repeat with the same recipe.

“We stopped apologising for smell complaints. The test report answers the question before it is asked.” — Northlane Active Product Team

Inline inspection and packing before the cycling jerseys shipment

Key takeaway

Sweat is almost odourless; bacteria create the smell. Treating the bacteria and moving the moisture at the same time solved a problem that neither approach had solved alone. For Northlane Active, that turned a recurring complaint into a feature the brand could sell.